“I wanted to have a little fun with the title,” explains the cheerful chef from his cozy downtown eatery, which specializes in Hungarian and European cuisine.
The 33 year-old restaurateur and his wife Neomi discovered our waterfront city while visiting friends back in 2001, and a year later, they set up shop. “We loved the lake, and thought Barrie could use a little Hungarian restaurant,” explains Lepsis.
“The city was ready for a new dining experience. Many people have moved up from Toronto and they are demanding different food options,” he adds.
The young couple also picked Barrie because Neomi always wanted to live in Canada. Her uncle, Frank Berger (a local chef and instructor at Liaison College) was instrumental in turning that dream into a reality.
Lepsis describes his food philosophy as simple, traditional and delicious. “We make everything from scratch for an authentic homemade taste. Take our apple strudel -- we only use fresh fruit, so it really tastes great,” explains the chef, while relaxing in the Dunlop Street dining room before the usual dinner rush.
His love of food began early in life. As a youngster, he was drawn to the smells and wonders of the kitchen. “I come from a family of fantastic cooks,” boasts the father of two young sons. “My grandmothers and my mother helped me to develop a taste for good food,” says Lepsis who began his formal culinary training in Hungary at the young age of 14.
While patting his stomach, the trim food lover jokingly adds, “I’m ruled by my stomach. Thank goodness, I also enjoy the fitness club.”
A quick menu scan reveals many Hungarian, German and Austrian specialties. Tempting highlights include a yummy chef schnitzel, stuffed with bacon, onions, salami and smoked cheese (the Hungarian chef’s favourite); a delicious beef goulash, and traditional Hungarian cabbage rolls. For dessert, try the somloi galuska – a vanilla and chocolate sponge cake layered with vanilla cream, raisins and walnuts, and topped off with whipped cream and chocolate sauce.
While Lepsis seems happy-go-lucky, his mood shifts when the December 2007 Five-Points Fire is discussed. “I will never forget it,” he says somberly. “It was the night of our first and last Christmas party. Before the fire, it was shaping up to be our best holiday season ever. We had parties booked
every day.”
Due to the restaurant’s close proximity to the devastating blaze (his eatery is separated from the damage by one business) it was closed for a week. “We suffered some smoke and water damage in the basement, and the gas and water had been turned off,” he explains, “but, the hardest part was having the sidewalk closed down for a month.”
He encourages local residents to keep supporting downtown shops and eating establishments as much as possible. Despite such hurdles, the Hungarian restaurateur happily reports that business has been picking up in recent months. “People can’t stay away from good food for too long,” he says with a smile.
GL: What’s your favourite gadget?
AL: My knife. It’s like a hammer to a construction worker – I can’t work without it. I was first introduced to Solingen knives (high quality German-made knives) when I started my training at 14. I still use
them today.
GL: What’s your favourite ingredient?
AL: I love the onions and garlic because they are so important to tradition Hungarian cuisine. But, if you asked me about my favourite food it’s game meat. I love it because it’s lean and very rich in flavour. People talk a lot about organic food, well -- you can’t get more organic than game meat.
GL: What are your favourite table settings?
AL: A single fresh flower at each table adds a nice touch.
GL: What are the culinary highlights of Simcoe County?
AL: The vegetables at Holland Landing are fantastic. Also, I really like Hovey’s Gourmet Meats. It’s a nice old-fashioned butcher shop and the quality is outstanding. The people who run it are also very friendly.
GL: Any advice for the home cook?
AL: Look for quality when purchasing cooking gadgets or appliances. It’s better to spend a bit more because these products will work better, have greater versatility and last longer. If you really enjoy cooking, invest in a gas stove because it cooks more evenly and you can adjust the flame.
The Hun
User Comments
