How do you find a restaurant/lounge, with an outstanding drink list, good food and happening atmosphere? Simply follow the wait staff and bartenders of other establishments who punch out and head to Manhattan’s. Located at Dunlop and Mulcaster, the nexus of Barrie’s dining and entertainment district, Manhattan’s long hours and longer martini list draw those in the biz.
“They’re a good judge if you are doing things right,” says manager Jim Garland, with a laugh, and points out that they also attract a good cross-section of city residents. He stands behind the restaurant’s bar, in a high-ceiling lounge area, with brick walls and wood floors. Just the right ambience is struck with low lights, flickering candles and a well-selected music play list (a DJ plays music on the weekend). Towards the back, Manhattan’s opens into a restaurant area with views over Kempenfelt Bay. In the dog days of summer, big windows in front and back are thrown open, providing a cross breeze that often makes air-conditioning unnecessary.
Garland, who has been there since the beginning, explains that Manhattan’s was founded five years ago to bring “a Toronto-themed bar to the city.” He adds: “No one was doing the martini thing back then.” Though today other bars and restaurants have caught onto the craze, he claims proudly, “We still do the martini,” and points out people’s love for the Bond beverage hasn’t abated over the years. Of course, Manhattan’s offers lots of other premium drinking choices, from 18 kinds of vodka to lots of different imported beers on tap.
But you couldn’t command professional respect if your only game was drink. Prepared under the guidance of executive chef Andrew Goetz, the menu features a wide variety of dishes, ranging from traditional bar finger foods, “done with a twist,” to Asian accents and steaks whose quality start at triple A and then goes up. “We specialize in casual fine dining,” says the 24-year-old, who trained in the culinary arts at Georgian College, did a stint as an apprentice chef and Georgian Downs before coming to Manhattan’s three years ago. (He is also the chef in charge at the British Arms; both establishments are owned by Frank Toufighjou.)
Goetz points out that though the dishes range from Pad Thai to Chicken Marsala, prices rarely go above the $20 mark. Especially appealing to diners is the constantly changing fixed price menu, which provides a choice of starters, entrées and desserts for only $19.95. As Goetz has refined Manhattan’s menu, he has shown lots of strength in the grilled meat department. One of his signature dishes is Stuffed Top Sirloin, which is not one but two 5 oz medallions of perfectly seasoned beef, stuffed with sautéed mushrooms and cheddar cheese, and then topped a compound butter of roasted garlic and red wine.
Garland also makes sure that Manhattan’s has a short but good wine list, with New World wines taking precedent over the Old—Australian and Californian vintages are particularly well represented. He admits one of the great perks of the job is doing the “research” to come up with new additions, such as the offerings of Virgin Vines, owned by Sir Richard Branson, the British billionaire entrepreneur.
As a restaurant founded on a trend, Manhattan’s has to stay on trend to remain successful. To that find inspiration and stay current, Goetz researches food extensively, both in magazines, like Bon Appétit, which family members give him as gift subscriptions, and through the endless resources of the Internet. For anyone who wants great cooking ideas, and endless databases of recipes, he suggests checking out the Websites for Gourmet magazine (www.epicurious.com) and the Food Network (www.foodnetwork.com).
Does the martini fad still really have any life left in it? Anyone in doubt should work their way through Manhattan’s list, ranging from the Black Forest Martini to the Watermelontini. “Our signature is the Green Apple Martini,” says Garland. Its Green Apple Twist Vodka is filled with generously sliced fresh apples and topped with a healthy dose of champagne.
Green Apple Martini? What would James Bond say? The old guy needn’t worry. Manhattan’s can also do a straight up dry gin martini with a twist. And yes, yes, it will be shaken.
Manhattan’s, 147 Dunlop St. East. 11 a.m. to 2 a.m., seven days a week. 721-1190.
Shaken Not Stirred
Photo by Ellie Kistemaker
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