An old boss comes to mind whenever I think of goat cheese. His name is David Wood, and any foodie within earshot of Toronto in the1980s and early 90s knows who I’m talking about.
For those who don’t, let me explain. David Wood owned a small chain of gourmet food shops located various upscale Toronto neighbourhoods. To put it simply, New York had the Silver Palate, and Toronto had David Wood. Unfortunately, his shops (I worked at one during my university days) closed down. As for David Wood? He packed up, and moved to B.C. to make goat cheese.
Fast forward about 15 years and David Wood is once again making waves in culinary circles. Big time. Trendy food publications just can’t stop talking about his creamy rounds of Salt Spring goat cheese.
Lucky for us, this yummy gem is available in Barrie at Craving’s Fine Food Market & Catering. “The Salt Spring Island line is incredible,” says Craving’s owner Angela Pidutti. Her personal Salt Spring favourites are the beautiful rounds of Flower Chèvre (pretty as a picture with a real edible flower on top), and the Blue Juliette (which smells and tastes of mushrooms).
But B.C. isn’t the only province making artisanal cheeses. Other quality producers are located in Quebec, New Brunswick, and Ontario. Artisanal cheeses are made by small, independent manufactures. They use high quality ingredients, and tend to have a superior taste -- not to mention a higher price tag. (Although several varieties exist, we’re just going to focus on those made from goat’s milk).
Pidutti also recommends Paillot De Chèvre from Quebec.
Goat cheese can be found in many varieties, packed in various shapes and sizes, and varying in texture and taste. Many feature additional flavours such as cranberry or peppercorns. Fresh artisanal goat cheeses are not usually aged, so they are fresh and creamy looking with a fairly mild, salty flavour.
The art of goat cheese production is remarkably ancient, perfected in the mountain and desert regions around the world, where low temperatures and terrain made cow rearing awkward.
Pidutti likes goat cheese for a variety of reasons. “It’s one of the most accessible artisanal cheeses available,” she explains. “It’s has a clean taste, a nice texture, and most people love its flavour.” Goat cheese is also low in lactose, making it a great alternative for some lactose intolerant cheese lovers.
But the best thing about goat cheese is its versatility. It stands well on its own, and works great in appetizers, entrees and desserts.
To show off the many culinary uses of goat cheese, Craving’s has offered the following delicious recipes and wine pairings.
Stuffed Cherry Tomatoes
These delicious bite size morsels are a real crowd pleaser. If fresh herbs aren’t available, substitute dry (simply cut amounts in half).
1 small package (140 g) soft unripened
goat cheese
1/ 4 cup sour cream
1 tsp fresh parsley, finely chopped
1/ 4 tsp fresh rosemary, finely chopped
1/ 4 tsp thyme, finely chopped
1 dry pint (small package) cherry tomatoes, whole
2 green onions (green part only)
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
PREPARATION: In small bowl, mix together cheese, sour cream and herbs until soft and smooth; season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside at room temperature.
Cut off tops of tomatoes and clean out the cavities with a small spoon (a small measuring spoon works well). Retain tops if desired.
Pipe or spoon filling into tomatoes.
Cut the greens of the onion into thin slices on a diagonal to look like a small leaf. Insert into the filling. Reposition tomato lids if desired.
Refrigerate up to 3 days. Makes about 16.
WHAT TO SERVE
2005 Malenchini Chianti Colli Fiorentini, DOCG ($29.95 per bottle)
Baked Goat Cheese with
Cranberry Salsa
This colourful appetizer is quick and easy to make. For variation, try fresh sliced strawberries instead of cranberries.
1 / 2 cup dried cranberries
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, minced
1 green onion, finely diced (white part only)
4 basil leaves, finely diced
1 small package (140 g) soft unripened goat cheese
1 tbsp cracked coloured peppercorns
Salt and ground black pepper to taste
24 crustinis
PREPARATION: In small bowl, combine cranberries, oil, garlic, onion and basil. Season to taste with salt and ground black pepper. Set aside to marinade for one hour.
Soften goat cheese with hands and form into a uniform patty.
Spread peppercorns on a plate, and lightly dip both sides of the goat cheese patty.
Transfer cheese to parchment-lined baking sheet. Bake in preheated 325F oven until edges bulge slightly and cheese is soft to the touch.
Using a flat-ended spatula, immediately place on serving plate. Salsa can be put on top of cheese or at the side for spooning. Use small palette knives to cut cheese and serve on crustinis. Makes topping for about 24 crustinis.
WHAT TO SERVE
2006 Endeavour Wines Alta Sauvignon Blanc ($20.95 per bottle)
Poached Pears with Goat Cheese
and Candied Almonds
This dessert will impress any guest. If you don’t have strawberry Zinfandel on hand, substitute equal amounts of white wine and a strawberry beverage (to equal 1- 1 /3 cups).
1- 1/3 cups strawberry Zinfandel
1/ 3 cup cranberry juice
2/ 3 cup water
1 cup granulated sugar
1 1/3 tbsp lemon juice
8 black peppercorns, whole
1 cinnamon stick
4 ripe Bartlett pears, with stems
1 small package (140 g) soft unripened goat cheese
1/2 cup candied almonds, crushed
(available at the Bulk Barn)
fresh mint leaves, for garnish
PREPARATION: In large saucepan, combine 1 cup Zinfandel, cranberry juice, water, 1 / 4 cup sugar, lemon juice, peppercorns and cinnamon. On medium low heat, cook until sugar is dissolved; set aside. This is your poaching liquid.
Cut pears in half and remove core, leaving stems intact. Peel pears and place in poaching liquid in a flat bottom shallow pot. Poach 10 to 12 minutes using medium low heat, or until pears are tender. Remove from heat and let pears stand in poaching liquid 30 to 40 minutes. Drain pears, reserving poaching liquid; cover pears and chill (you can leave pears at room temperature if you are serving immediately upon finishing recipe). Place poaching liquid in fridge for 30 minutes.
Strain poaching liquid; add 3 /4 cup sugar.
Add 1/3 cup Zinfandel. Over low heat, reduce to a medium-thick syrup. Chill for 15 minutes.
Remove pears from fridge and warm to room temperature. Divide goat cheese and make 12 small balls by rolling in your hand. Roll each one in the crushed almonds. Scatter the remaining almonds on 6 dessert plates. Place the ball of cheese in core of each pear. Arrange two pieces of pear on each plate. Gently reheat the syrup over medium low heat and spoon 1 tablespoon of the glaze over each pear. Garnish with mint leaves. Makes 4 servings.
WHAT TO SERVE
2005 Forchir Pinot Grigio ‘Lamis’ DOC
($15.95 per bottle )
