When Barrie chef Coos Uylenbroek was just 13, he was tested by a psychologist in his native Holland who revealed that the boy was destined for a career at the stove. Although it seems unlikely that someone could make such an accurate prediction with one so young, the psychologist had the gift of prophecy and the citizens of Barrie will be forever in his debt, as Chef Uylenbroek has been tempting our collective palates for over 20 years at his restaurant The Crazy Fox Bistro.
Like many chefs here, Barrie was not his first stop. As a young man in the Dutch armed forces, Uylenbroek was stationed on the island of Curacao, off the coast of Venezuela. After two years there, he began to travel the world, ending up visiting relatives in Pickering, Ontario. “In Canada I decided that this was my kind of living. People were walking around on Sunday afternoons with t-shirts on and not suits and ties like I was used to.” So he returned to Holland and two months later, in October of 1973, emigrated to Canada, taking a job as a banquet chef with the Holiday Inn in Mississauga. Two months after that he met his future wife Lawna. When he speaks of the woman with whom he shares his life and his business – they run The Crazy Fox together – Uylenbroek breaks into a warm smile. He says of their meeting, “You can’t let a good thing go by.”
After a decade at the Holiday Inn, four years of which he spent as executive chef, the Uylenbroeks packed up their family and moved to Stanford, Connecticut where Coos ran the kitchen at a small boutique hotel. “But I realized that I enjoyed the physical aspect of cooking more than the managing aspect,” he recalls. “Corporate life isn’t very good for the family. It’s a lot of weekends and late nights.” So, craving a simpler life they moved with their three kids to Barrie, where Lawna had family, and opened up their first restaurant together.
The first Crazy Fox Bistro (a name they kept from the previous owner) opened in an old bank building at the bottom of Tiffin and Bradford Streets, with Lawna at the front of the house and Coos creating his signature dishes from a tiny kitchen. After 15 years they decided it was time for a change, both in concept and venue. But a move to the current location on Bayfield Street was fraught with problems created by the massive construction the street was engulfed in soon after they opened. Taking advantage of the slow down in business the two traveled extensively in California, drawn by their love of wine and their interest in the culinary trail blazing that the state is known for. What they brought back was a renewed enthusiasm for the simple, unpretentious cuisine that is their hallmark.
With over 30 years in the restaurant business under his belt, Coos Uylenbroek has seen trends come and go but one look at his menu and one can see that an authoritative hand is at the helm. Seared ahi tuna is paired simply with arugula, shaved parmesan and truffle vinaigrette. Little neck clams need no more embellishment than fresh herbs, garlic and white wine. Duck breast is accompanied by honey caramelized apple and cranberry salsa.
A refined man of few words, chef Ulyenbroek lets the food speak for itself.
GL: What is your favourite gadget?
CU: I’m not a Martha Stewart but in this industry you do make good use of your Cuisinart. I really love the big black steel frying pan I have at my cottage for fish fries. I love to fish and I love spending time with my family.
GL: What is your favourite ingredient?
CU: Fresh herbs. I love fresh tarragon. I use it in vinaigrette, in the old-fashioned béarnaise, which is not being used so much now because people’s concept of what’s healthy. I also love it with seafood, in moderation so it doesn’t over power the main ingredient.
GL: What are your favourite table settings?
CU: I’m very fond of a plain, simple table setting with the simplicity of a beautiful single flower arrangement – a single gerbera daisy or orchid. We started doing that some years ago and have maintained that look.
GL: What are the culinary highlights in Simcoe County?
CU: Back in 1986 I was very pleased to see a Sobeys open up because I was finally able to easily get some fresh basil. Now when you go into Zehrs or Costco, it’s incredible the quality of food that’s available. It’s such a treat compared to the late ‘80s and early ‘90s. I find it intriguing to walk through the large grocery stores and see what’s available, from lychee nuts to all kinds of herbs. Truffle oil, for example, was unheard of some years ago.
GL: Any advice for the home cook?
CU: Use simple food. Use the quality of the product. Don’t overcook and don’t over complicate the flavours by mixing too many ingredients together.
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